Assemble the wood frame...

We opted for a wood frame, because it seemed like a solid option. We are building according to CS-R blueprints for R2D2,  (revised). We found another member through the Astromech forum that does a run on wood frames. This is made from Ukrainian Birch Wood, exported to USA, CNC-cut and now exported back to Sweden. I guess thats 0-1 for the Climate, but still we got a great looking frame here. I did ask local companies but they did not seem to interested in minimal order of 1 unit, and they just said that I could possible ask local carpenters. So I did ask a couple of those, but seemed busy at the moment.

I guess this was the shortcut instead of cutting the frame ourselves.

If you ignore the RC plane at the far side of the table, the rest of the pieces are our wood frame! :)

Test assemble... we started watching the youtube video I have linked before, but quickly noted that in the video they are using the CS-L frame instead of this one, so we chose to look at the pictures provided by the seller, and we had no problems putting it together.

Fitted, but not glued together...

And ofc we just had to testfit some of our 3D printed pieces so far... 

We did also make a test using cell-foam for filling up parts of the frame which is not needed for eiter details or hatches. We are guessing that it could give some support for the outer-layer-skin and also may give some extra support to the frame and make for a more solid construct. This kind of cell foam doesn't really add any extra weight to the R2 unit.

That's all for now...

3D printing tools...

We have a lot of sanding to do, so one step is to find ways to sand effectively in all the angels. So this is an example of what to do. Olof Geelnard designed this for our use on the R2D2 unit. This is designed at https://www.tinkercad.com/

And this is the printed result, lower polygon count at the bottom to have a better grip when inserted, and the highest resolution at the top, so that is quite solid and sterdy:

And this is how it works...

R2-D2 Builders Club...

Apply for your membership: http://astromech.net/forums/forum.php

With a members counting at around 40.000 persons, there is a lot of knowledge available at the Astromech forum. Free membership, easy to join! :)

Death Star plans...

I guess an R2 unit really should have a copy of this file...   just for screen accuracy!

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgpTHHP-WSA

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi, you are my only hope...

Something like this, to put on a projector screen from our R2D2 unit perhaps? This is Rob Meyer's re-edited Leia message. He actually captured the scene and then edited it frame-by-frame  in photoshop. A crude way, but effective way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tf-1xeE3zzE

Filler and sanding...

Apart from 3D printing alot of pieces there is also all the work with perfecting every part after printing is done. We chose to do all the prints in high-resolution to make it easier to make a nice finish...

R2D2:s arm from the front, there is suppose to be two of them. These are composed of 3d prints that are made in four seperate parts, then glued together. There is a lot of sanding, filler spray, sanding, then more filler spray, several layers...

so there is four parts on each arm, they are printed two at a time, And there is three pieces of sort of like a box, where the arm is folded inside, which are also printed. These three parts (not shown in picture) also takes around 8 hours each, to print in high resolution, and these arms have about 14-16 hours of printing in them already. And that does not include all the work that goes into perfecting the object afterwards...

This is sort of like half way through the process! A lot more hours to go!

Attaching servos to the holo lenses...

So we were really wondering about an effective sollution for the attachment of servos to the hololenses. Just attaching them directly to the 3D printed hololens-part didn't really sit that well with me.

Today I saw this, as another member at the forum, Mowee has made this great printable frame! And it's available as an .stl file through the Astromech.net forum!

It never stop to amaze me, how wonderful this hobby is with all the engineering details, little projects that the community seem to find nice sollutions to, one piece at the time...

Just received the Teeces lightsystem...

...and now it's fully operational! Here we have added some temporary frames just to test out the system but it seem to be functioning just fine!

We are really happy with the way it has turned out! The frames we have 3D printed, the tubes are pvc piping, so we got those together with the light-kit. The logics run off of a arduino, and Curiousmarc has originally written the code!

Just some close-ups!

Running the dome...

Just looking at others solution for the dome... basically it goes something like this:

...and that is what makes the dome able to spin around and around and around... the bolts can't be to long as they will hinder the movement as you place it on the slipring.

The engine you can find here but also at alot of other places too:
https://www.amazon.com/12Vdc-Right-Angle-Drive-Electric/dp/B005IR1NBA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1421189468&sr=8-5&keywords=seat%20motor

But there is some assembly required, so here is a basic tutorial from youtube:

Noted is that we will probably go in a different direction since these kinds of engines can be a bit loud, they have a high-pitch...so some kind of high-torque engine, we will get back to you on that one as we look into other solutions... 

R2D2 electronics sketch...

Basically the Marcduino set-up goes something like this! Teeces lightsystem and 16 servos to control the dome functionality with all hatches open and close, two servos to each holo-lens, and a wifly socket because Marcduino has his own app for running the R2 unit. Extremly well-written program if you ask me!

Basic sketch:

Here Marc demonstrates the R2 touch - app, available at the appstore, and more currently also for android as I have heard! We are going to see if we can get this kind of functionality into our R2 unit because when someone already made a system with high-functionality it would be kinda stubborn to develop another system that would be far worse. If the support ends for this app we will make our own controller though.

We are also currently looking at different motors for the feet-drives. An Astromech can weigh about 60 kg so there is alot of weight to pull around!

Testing Arduino...

This is an easy assembly from a Arduino Uno kit, trying out the code just for fun and see how the system works. Mostly because I hadn't tried it before.

Basically connect like this:

/*
*
*
*/
#include <LiquidCrystal.h> // includes the LiquidCrystal Library
LiquidCrystal lcd(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12); // Creates an LC object. Parameters: (rs, enable, d4, d5, d6, d7)

int backLight = 13; // set pin 13 to control the backlight;

void setup() {
  // put your setup code here, to run once:

 lcd.begin(16,2); // Initializes the interface to the LCD screen, and specifies the dimensions (width and height) of the display }
 lcd.print("hello, world!");

 pinMode (backLight, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(backLight,HIGH);

lcd.clear();

lcd.begin(16,2);

lcd.setCursor(0,0);

lcd.print("Hello, World"); // can change any words you want;

lcd.setCursor(0,1);

lcd.print("I feel good!"); // can change any words you want;

}

void loop() {
  // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:

 delay(3000);
 lcd.clear(); // Clears the display

 lcd.print("Arduino"); // Prints "Arduino" on the LCD
 delay(3000); // 3 seconds delay
 lcd.setCursor(2,1); // Sets the location at which subsequent text written to the LCD will be displayed
 lcd.print("Makes magic");
 delay(3000);
 lcd.clear(); // Clears the display
 lcd.blink(); //Displays the blinking LCD cursor
 delay(4000);
 lcd.setCursor(7,1);
 delay(3000);
 lcd.noBlink(); // Turns off the blinking LCD cursor
 lcd.cursor(); // Displays an underscore (line) at the position to which the next character will be written
 delay(4000);
 lcd.noCursor(); // Hides the LCD cursor
 lcd.clear(); // Clears the LCD screen

 }

I did not clean up this code, so use it for what it is, just a test! 

Some of our 3D prints so far...

Basically we got all the files to 3D print an entire R2D2 if we wanted to, but in our view of things, it just feels slightly wrong to 3D print all of it, so we will go for a mixture of materials. Right now though, some of our 3D prints have actually turned out pretty well!

Here is one of the holo-lenses from R2D2:s head:

We are using Simplify3D for slicing the 3D model files, made by Michael Baddeley who can be found through Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/mrbaddeley/about or through Facebook or the Astromech.net forums. He has been kind enough to opensource his files, through the forums and R2 builders community.

These are made with Ultimaker 3, and high resolution print, about 22hours printtime, but the details are looking sharp and good.

Large logic (rear) on the Dome, in high-resolution, printed on a Ultimaker 2 with high-resolution settings from the Simplify3D slicer.

This is made on a Forge Finder SE, with the same high resolution settings, about 14 hours printtime. We decided to go for High resolution on all details, even though it makes every print about two to three times longer. But the quality of the prints are really worth the wait!

Soldering or tinkering...

We also had a look at curiousmarc's sketch-up for running the droid on specific arduinos, called "Marcduino" cards. They are adapted Arduino boards specifically designed for the use of droid-control, servo, coordinated light and sound effects and so on!

There is always the option of building an entire new system, and there are some other systems that are widely spread throughout the R2D2 builders community.

Basically it is possible to order these cards off a site called Oshpark, https://store.oshpark.com/

they do keep alot of neat stuff, but there is some work to be done as is to be seen in the second picture.

Some of the R2 builders use what they call, SHADOW together with a Padawan 360 system, which is infact using a Playstation 2 or XBOX controller to actually manage the droids technical systems. We have a background in regular RC flying and cars so we will go for a more traditional sollution with RC controllers but also Arduino or Marcduino to manage some of the electrical systems.

After actually putting the cards together there is ofcourse the actual code to be written onto these cards. ,,,babysteps. Marc does keep some very useful information on his website. If this is the system we are going to use or not. Well, time will tell. We got the cards, so it is a definite option.

http://www.curiousmarc.com/dome-automation/building-marcduino-boards

For now, we are looking at how to interconnect the light&sound system with dome automation, and also the mechanics for the feet-drive of the R2 unit.

R2D2 lights...

Actually lighting the dome can post quite a challenge. Luckily there are some sollutions to the problem. One is to use a club-specific light-system. Teeces, which was developed by a member of the forum who goes by the name "curiousmarc" at the forum.

He has an excellent webpage where he explains his build of his R2. Also, he explains the Teeces system: http://www.curiousmarc.com/teeces-logics-dome-lights

This poses an excellent choice for us!

3D printing R2D2...

We also quickly discovered that a lot of R2D2:s parts are not easy to come by. This is because they are either made in aluminium for R2D2 builders, or they are cast in resin, or 3d printed. 

Getting the parts from Ebay would be extremly costly, as browsing the internet showed us. Aluminium parts are still the most expensive, but also the molded resin parts are quite expensive as they are made by hand, one at a time and R2D2 has alot of parts that you can't make by yourself.

So early in the process we looked at 3D printing as an option, to be able to do some of the parts at home. There is a nice community that shares 3D print files and if you have the access to a 3D printer you will be able to make these parts by yourself.

Flashforge Finder (SE) is a nice alternative for home printing, not a heated printbed though and only 14x14x14 building area posts some challenges.

Lucas Arts has the copyright of the R2D2 creation, but since the R2 builders club, doesnt sell these droids for money, and use them for charity. It has not been a problem within the community to build your own droid! At https://www.thingiverse.com/ you can find some parts, as an example. Within the community you could probably find more...

We also have taken contact to our local MakerSpace Luleå, and they also have a couple of Ultimakers 3D printing machines at their facilities, so we can also use them for some of our bigger prints.

3D print of R2D2 radar eye, turned out very nicely!

Basic structure of body...

We opted for a wood frame, although there is many routes to go. Some make their R2D2:s out of aluminium frames, (extremly expensive), wood, or a total 3D print is also possible since 3D printing as become a tool available for the masses.

We decided that we wanted a mix of materials, so therefore a wood frame seemed like a solid choice. There are many way to vary this choice aswell. Also a member of the R2D2 builders club has made plans for a wood frame that is also available through the R2 builders club, so either you can cut MDF or plywood by yourself or you can pre-order a frame and then assemble...

This is a "lazy-susan" basically what makes R2D2:s head able to spin in circles... the dome will rest on top of this.

Basically a wood-frame kit that looks somewhat like this as it arrives! We are looking forward to start putting our R2 unit together!

The plans are available here: http://www.midwestr2.com/Images/SennaTemplates.pdf
...or just scout the Astromech forum since they have all the building plans for your R2D2 unit.

The Dome...

So, R2D2:s head is a very specific "egg-shaped" aluminium dome, 300mm in diameter, and the process of making one is just not one that you want to do in your own garage. Although you could 3D print a dome, in parts and then assemble. We decided that we wanted closer to the original aluminium dome, that is manufactured by one of the members of the Astromech forum.

Derren Muller sells these, but only to Astromech members, since it is part of the R2D2 builders club.

At 490$ that would be considered a bargain! Its just perfect!

There is a lot of work that goes into making this dome, into a replica of R2D2, but still, its the best possible start.

On the internet you can see hobby projects going into using for example IKEA kitchen lamps, or their saladbowls for a similar look, but unfortunately the shape is somewhat wrong, since R2D2 is more "egg-shaped" and also the measurement is off, at IKEA with a 450 mm dome, you would get all measurements on your R2D2 unit wrong aswell...

Making plans...

So we first started this project after visiting an Expo in Northern Sweden, "Nordsken" 25th of May, 2017. After meeting Thomas Ira Nixon and his R2D2 unit we found ourselves inspired to start building our own.

After a quick study of this subject, how we were going to build R2D2. We found Astromech.net forum, which is recommended for being the nr1 world-wide, R2D2 builders club! And because there is a lot to learn about Astromechs and droids, if you become a member you have acccess to their forums and can ask many questions, which you will need to build your astromech to the right specifications!

Basically, there is no R2D2 unit that is completly alike, because there is a lot of choices on how you build your R2 unit. Which materials to use, or how the interior design is going to be, how you will solve both the mechanical and the electrical issues that needs to be resolved!

"We" are Helene and Olof Geelnard, we live in Northern Sweden, a town called Luleå. (north east of Hoth). This is a fun family project!